There are countries left where life is still peaceful and nobody is beats the bush to attract tourists. The small Loir valley is one of these regions. It’s winding river is bordered here and there by vineyards and restaurants for the gourmets, picturesque villages and fortresses for those in search of authenticity, romanesque churches decorated with frescoes and homes of famous poets for the art lovers, towns dating back hundreds, sometimes thousands of years and chateaux for the history lovers, troglodyte villages and deep forests for the seekers of the unusual and exotic.

In Vendôme, following the canals by the college where Balzac studied, discover the Abbey de la Trinité, with its’ unique XIIth to XIVth century stainglass windows, and its’ flamboyant gothic façade next to the romanesque XIIth century tower, culminating at 80 m.

Further down the river towards Montoire, the vineyards of the Coteaux du Vendômois lie across the bank from the château where Rochambeau was born and other manor houses, as well as the troglodyte village of Roches-L’Evêque. Tucked away in Montoire itself are some beautiful renaissance houses, as well as an undiscovered jewel, the Chapel of St Gilles (Xith century) with it’s majestic mural paintings.

Lavardin, classified one of the most beautiful villages of France, is just a mile away. The imposing ruins of the fortress dominate the town where each house rivals in charm with the neighbouring one. Don’t forget to visit the romanesque church with its’ incredibly rich frescoes which have only recently been unveiled. Follow the road just a little further to the gardens of Sasnières, which are well worth the detour.

Trôo is another one of these unforgettable villages. Here you will find an incredible network of troglodyte caves built into the limestone one on top of the other, with countless underground passages running through the steep hillside dominated by the romanesque collegiate, a singing XVth century covered well and a prehistoric tumulus.

Arriving in Couture, stop at the Manor de la Possonière, where the “Prince of Poets”, the famous Ronsard, lived back in the early XVIth century. Amble through the beautiful rose garden, designed by André Eve before crossing the Loir to visit the Château de Poncé with its’ extraordinary renaissance staircase.

Finally, just a few miles West you will see the vineyards of Jasnières, known to produce “three times a century, the best white wine in the world” according to Curnonski, the Prince of gastonomes. A little to the West, wander through the forest of Bercé, one of the most beautiful woodlands of Europe. And just a little further North East lies the magnificient yet unknown renaissance Château de Courtanvaux. Another few miles and you can visit and stay in the elegant Château de La Barre, which has been in the same family since the XIVth century.

ChateaudelaBarre